Marrakesh is the beating heart of Morocco; traders come from all over the country, many of them with workshops in their hometowns.  Different souks will specialize in different products; for example, in the Souq Haddadine, you’ll be able to see blacksmiths at work and buy directly from them. Marrakesh specifically is known for spices; they are locally produced and sold by the bag. There’s also quite a bit of Berber influence in the markets. A nomadic people living primarily in places like the Sahara and Atlas Mountains, their rich culture of craftsmanship and design is seen all over the souks in things like colourful bread baskets, hand-woven rugs, and silver jewelry, with many coming directly from the Berber tribes.

A word of warning about the main tourist souks outside the Djemaa El Fna. It can feel very overwhelming and claustrophobic, and though the stalls are “outside,” the pathways between them are covered. GPS doesn’t work particularly well, so when guides say “get lost in the souks,” it’s a very literal suggestion. Expect intense smells, vivid colours, winding narrow lanes and, perhaps most overwhelmingly, the holler of every shopkeeper that catches sight of you, waving you down into their shops.

While it can get frustrating constantly being badgered by all the peddlers, but remaining civil is very important. Competition is intense, and you must remember this is their livelihood.  Instead of ignoring the shopkeepers or saying something rude, you can say:

“I’ll let you know when I find something”
“I need a minute to look around”
“Do you mind giving me a few minutes to see the stuff?”

If you don’t intend to stop, just keep walking and give them a polite smile and a shake of the head, you’ll be surprised at how often you’ll receive a laughing wave back!

Until you become a seasoned expert, it’s easier to let the shopkeeper begin the numbers game so you have a foundation to work with. After picking out something you like, they will likely start off with an absurdly high number, probably in euros. It’s a number they don’t expect to receive, just as you’ll respond with a number so low it’ll make you uncomfortable.

However you’ll be going up by increments of €1-2 and they’ll be cutting down their asking price by 5s and 10s. The goal, eventually, is to meet somewhere around the middle mark after their second response offer. For example, you’ll see a scarf that you want to purchase, and they’ll say it’s €40. You can say you’ll only purchase it for €3. The actual price for a scarf could be between €5-10.

An example negotiation could go like this:

It is easier to negotiate if you are buying more than one item. For example, to buy one scarf you can get the price to maybe €7-8, but if you are buying four, it’s much easier to get them down to €5 each.

It’s important not to be aggressive. If your seller isn’t giving you the price you want, walk away. Likely that will be the trigger for them to give you a better settling price, and if not, there are plenty of other shops to try. It is also poor etiquette to agree on a price, but then change your mind and refuse to purchase.

Understanding quality is important; if one shopkeeper said he will sell you lanterns for €2 each, but another shopkeeper refuses to sell his lanterns below €15, get a feel for the quality; the €15  lantern is likely made brass instead of tin. Shopkeepers will not compromise as much on their quality products, and it is an insult to the craft to keep on insisting on a lower price.

Don’t worry if you feel uncomfortable, especially starting off. Haggling is the culture of Morocco, it’s an expectation, and an experience in and of itself. If you happen to wander through less touristy areas, you’ll likely see locals haggling in French or Arabic as well, carrying baskets around to gather their groceries. The biggest difference you’ll see are the goods; kettles, electric fans, and piles of t-shirts and jeans.

This can be tricky, so it’s good to feel around before making a choice. Aluminum lanterns are the cheapest but they’re breakable and poor quality. Many are painted to look like brass or copper, but if you look closely, you’ll be able to see the paint chipping off on a tin base. Actual brass lanterns will not be painted, they’ll be heavier, and the lever will open much smoother.

Likely the best approach is to negotiate the price of the most expensive ceramic (salad bowl or dinner plate) and once settling on a price for that, negotiate an entire set. The better-quality ceramics come from Safi and Fez, and are much thicker and often ridged compared to the poorer quality ceramics which are thin and tend to shatter.

You cannot leave Marrakesh without trying tagine, whether at a restaurant or in your riad. You can take home decorative tagines for as little as a €1, to €20 for an authentic clay one to cook with.

The scarves in Marrakech tend to be made in India; the sellers might say it is an authentic Berber scarf, or that they are made of ‘cactus silk,’ but those claims are false; Berber scarves tend to be indigo-dyed cotton, simple and without patterns, and fairly inexpensive. The colourful patterned scarves in the marketplace are imported and mass-produced from India.

However if you do have it in your heart to purchase one, use this guide:

These are very popular leather slippers sold in Marrakesh, though you have to be careful to purchase authentic leather and not fabric babouches.

Carved from trees in the Southern region, you can purchase plenty of beautiful thuya wood items, like hand carved chess-boards with swinging compartments to hold the pieces. Wooden chess boards like this would cost a small fortune anywhere else, but in Marrakesh you can get them for a fraction of the cost, and even see them make it.

There are plenty of items you can purchase that are not on this list; baskets, silver jewelry, mirrors, and so on. A good rule of thumb is to offer them 10% of their original offer, and settle somewhere between that and their second counter-offer. Eventually you’ll build up knowledge about prices and quality, and you’ll be haggling like a Moroccan in no time.

What’s more, travellers who do make the effort to visit this little-known swathe of Tōhoku will find it refreshingly light on tourist crowds.

With one of the lowest population densities of any prefecture in Japan, Iwate is defined by its natural features. Mountain ranges, deep gorges, beech forests, volcanic peaks and caldera lakes make it a prime hiking, onsen-soaking and getting-away-from-it-all destination. Come winter, the landscape transforms into an impossibly pretty snow country, with low-key ski resorts (such as Hachimantai, at the base of mountain Iwate-san) seeing relatively few international visitors.

To the east is the stunning and varied Sanriku Kaigan (Sanriku Coast), stretching about 220km and passing through three prefectures. Here sheer cliffs and jagged ria formations meet the broad Pacific Ocean, with the Kitayamazaki Cliffs in Iwate’s north just one windswept highlight. The Sanriku Kaigan region is great for a road trip, but for deeper exploration consider walking part of the Michinoku Coastal Trail. Traversing the length of the coast, this series of trails leads through scenery ranging from sandy coves and woodlands to steep bluffs and rural hills, stopping at small towns along the way.

Iwate is the place to take the wanko-soba challenge: discover how many mini servings of noodles you can quickly slurp down, one after another, in one sitting. Not a bizarre game-show task, this is said to be a 300-year-old tradition, and one place to try it is atmospheric restaurant Azumaya in Morioka. Here servers stand by with trays of noodles to refill each bowl the moment you empty it. Diners who can manage 100 bowlfuls (surprisingly not uncommon!) receive a commemorative plaque.

For noodles with less pressure, tasty Morioka reimen is an interesting local speciality worth seeking out. Firm, chewy noodles are served in a chilled broth, usually topped with a boiled egg, vegetables, and kimchi – a spicy giveaway to the Korean origins of the dish.

But it’s not all noodles. A long coastline means excellent fresh seafood, and fertile farmlands raise beef and produce some of Japan’s best known dairy products (in particular, look out for Koiwai farm cookies and cakes). There are also surprising finds, such as L’auréole, a restaurant perched on a remote clifftop in the north of the prefecture, where chef Ito Katsuyasu prepares French-inspired dishes using local ingredients.

The northern region of Japan is home to many traditional crafts, with artisans practising techniques honed through the centuries. Iwate’s most well-known contribution to this legacy is Nambu Tekki (Nambu Ironware), with a history thought to span at least 400 years. At Iwachu ironworks close to Morioka, visitors can observe craftspeople at work casting and detailing the iron; then browse a tempting smorgasbord of beautifully made ironware items in the attached shop – from the traditional and contemporary tea kettles, to wind chimes and candle holders. (Just don’t forget to have your passport on you to receive a tax refund if spending more than ¥5000.) Nambu Tekki can also be perused and bought at Morioka Handiworks Square, a collection of several workshops demonstrating various crafts from around the region, with opportunities to try your hand at making your own.

If it’s the Japan of quiet temples and contemplative gardens you seek, Iwate has those too. Hiraizumi, a former feudal town, is home to the wooded temple complex Chūson-ji, a World Heritage Site. The star here is 12th-century Konjiki-dō, a fully gilded and elaborately decorated pavilion (kept behind glass for preservation), beneath which are the remains of three generations of the Ōshu Fujiwara clan, once rulers of the region. Nearby is the garden of Mōtsū-ji, centred on a large pond. Also dating from the 12th century, this is one of very few remaining examples of a Pure Land Buddhist garden in Japan – these types of gardens were designed to resemble the Buddhist paradise that devotees hoped to eventually enter.

About 80km northeast and a few hundred years younger than the sites of Hiraizumi, the carefully maintained farmhouses of Tono Furusato Village give an insight into rural life in Edo times (1603–1868). This open-air museum features several thatched-roof, broad-beam houses, relocated from around the region and arranged on leafy grounds surrounded by hills. You can also explore inside the houses, where household items and tools from the era are on display and the open hearth may be crackling.

Iwate may not have the cache and big-name sights of Tokyo and Kyoto, but it also doesn’t have the overcrowding, and the lack of polish in some areas is a big part of its charm. It’s also a region home to many inspiring and welcoming communities, continuing to rebuild and revitalise since the devastating earthquake and tsunami of 2011. Iwate is a place to come for unhurried travel: a road trip through the mountains, a stay in an onsen hotel, a ride on the slow train along the coast. And while it’s off the beaten path, this is still Japan – you can of course get here by bullet train.

Christmas in London is a big deal, with events across town from November to January. Open-air ice rinks pop up at famous landmarks like the Tower of London, Somerset House, Hampton Court Palace and the Natural History Museum, and 2019 sees the return of London’s first-ever (and Europe’s only) rooftop ice rink at Skylight in Tobacco Dock.

Traditional Christmas music can be heard at Trafalgar Square, which resonates with carols through much of December, sung alongside its giant tree, an annual gift from Norway dating back to 1947 to thank the UK for help during the war. Hyde Park’s family-favourite Winter Wonderland features rides, a circus, ice sculptures, a market and the big man himself, Santa Claus. On New Year’s Eve, the riverbank by the London Eye erupts in a soul-stirring fireworks display. Buy a ticket if you want a spot with a good view.

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Craft fairs and Christmas markets appear on the South Bank and at Greenwich, among other places, while festive lights spectacularly illuminate the central shopping zone around Oxford and Regent streets. The lights are truly lovely but that sentiment is shared by many, so expect crowds. Further east, Westfield Stratford City shopping centre by the Olympic Park throws a big party for the turning-on of its lights. Head south and book tickets in advance for the spectacular Christmas at Kew immersive Christmas lights experience.

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London is famous globally as a shopping paradise and the best prices are found during the annual sales. From backstreet boutiques to Harrods, stock clears at big discounts, and while things traditionally get going in early January, stores are increasingly starting their sales before Christmas. Winter is also a great time to explore historic covered shopping arcades, such as Leadenhall Market or Burlington Arcade, which offer retail respite from the chilly weather and a glimpse back to the London of old.

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The cosiness of a typical London pub is a blessing in winter. Top spots to raise a glass include Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (once frequented by Charles Dickens), Gordon’s Wine Bar (arrive early for any chance of a seat) and Ye Old Mitre (you might need to hold your breath to squeeze down the tiny alleyway that leads to it).

Away from the city centre there are some equally excellent options with each neighbourhood inviting exploration, with its own character, characters and lovely local boozers. It’s the best way to meet Londoners and get a feel for what their city is about. Try the Jerusalem Tavern in Clerkenwell, the Holly Bush in Hampstead or the Carpenter’s Arms in Shoreditch.

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Watched by hundreds of millions around the world, British football is iconic. Chelsea, Arsenal and Tottenham are globally renowned, but smaller clubs like Fulham – whose Craven Cottage home ground is the city’s most beautiful – Brentford or QPR offer a more authentic atmosphere, plus tickets are cheaper and easier to come by. Drop a couple of divisions and match days at Leyton Orient or AFC Wimbledon are great grassroots experiences. If the oval ball is more your thing, rugby matches are always great fun, with local teams including the Harlequins and Saracens, and big games taking place at impressive Twickenham Stadium.

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From cutting-edge drama to a Christmas pantomime’s nostalgic camp, London’s winter entertainment caters to every taste. The West End always has an incredible variety of musicals and plays showing, but some gems are out in the suburbs too, particularly in the north, around Camden, Highgate and Kilburn. Always check local listings for what’s currently showing, but at time of writing some of the most anticipated Christmas performances for December 2019 include Goldilocks and the Three Bears at the London Palladium, English National Ballet’s The Nutcracker at the London Coliseum and The Lion, The Witch and the Wardrobe at Bridge Theatre.

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Similarly, London’s plump pick of galleries and museums is fattened further by temporary exhibitions in winter. The annual Wildlife Photographer of the Year display at the Natural History Museum is now in its 55th year, and as breathtaking as ever. Over at the National Portrait Gallery, the Everyday Icons: Collecting Popular Portraits exhibition will be drawing the crowds all the way into March. And at the Science Museum an exhibition on innovation, ‘from enlightenment to dark matter’, will run until the end of January 2020.

The Underground and buses are handy, but in winter they can get crowded as commuters seek to escape the cooler temperatures. For a fresher perspective, get a map and take to the streets: you’ll see so much more of the city. Distances around the centre are rarely as far as they look; Buckingham Palace and the Tower of London are just an hour’s stroll from each other, with many of the city’s most famous landmarks in between.

Or if temperatures drop and those wintery white flakes start falling, do like the locals and head to the hills (or at least one of the parks) for some sledging and snowman building – Hampstead Heath, Primrose Hill and Greenwich Park are firm favourites.